
Well, turns out I was sicker than I thought. I finally went to the doctor, who diagnosed pneumonia. Since my
last post, I've been basically out of commission. I'm now breathing easier and coughing less, on the road to recovery.
So .... to continue my report on the Mississippi trip. After Helena, we went on to Clarksdale. And ... this is where I first started to get sick. It came on rather suddenly (doctor said probably influenza). As a consequence, I have no more photos. I swear, I thought I was taking some, but when I downloaded them, there were none there. I was truly in a fog.
Anyway, I managed the
Delta Blues Museum, as pictured above. They didn't allow photography within the museum. It's a nice little museum, with some interesting exhibits, memorabilia from various blues artists. I remember a full suit of clothing once worn by Little Milton. The centerpiece is a cabin from the Stovall Plantation where Muddy Waters once lived. There's a wax figure of Muddy inside.

A block away from the Delta Blues Museum is the
Ground Zero Blues Club. It's a funky looking building with old sofas and chairs on the front porch. Inside, there's the usual bar, a few tables and guitars and posters on the walls. Most notable is that the walls are completely covered with signatures and graffiti from guests. You can kind of see it in the photo of the stage below.

I can't remember for the life of me the name of the band. Sorry. We didn't stay long because I was starting to get a fever.
I didn't make it to any other blues clubs or juke joints because I spent my evenings in the motel room coughing. Fun, fun, fun.
We decided to turn around and head home, but before we did, we managed a visit to the
B.B. King Museum in Indianola. Sorry, I don't have pictures. But I highly recommend this museum, not just for blues fans but for anyone interested in the African American experience or Civil Rights Movement. This is a first-class museum. It traces B.B. King's life chronologically from childhood to the present by exhibits of memorabilia, excellent looping videotaped interviews with B.B. King and many others, interactive activities and lots of interpretative signage.
Most impressive is that the museum places B.B. King's life within the context of historical events, and it explores how the events affected his life and how his achievements helped to open doors and pave the way for other African American musicians of all genres. This museum alone is worth a trip to Mississippi.
The only other thing I did on the way home was meet the esteemed
Dick Waterman and his lovely wife for breakfast one morning in Oxford. (I pray I did not pass on any germs.)
I am way behind in making posts. I hope to get caught up within the next few days.